The first rule for those of us who love cheap wine is that if it costs more than $10, it had better be really, really good. And in the case of La Tunella’s Tocai Friulano, the wine is exactly that.

This is an Italian white for about $23, made with the tocai, one of those hundreds of grapes that is grown only in Italy. (Supposed to be available at Central Market, and eventually the usual places). The best way to describe it is as somewhere between sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio, with the former’s fruit and the latter’s mineral qualities. I couldn’t believe how good it was (and certainly better than the food at the trendy Italian place where I tasted it). Serve it slightly chilled on its own — it would be terrific before a fancy dinner with the boss — or with the usual white wine dishes, and especially grilled fish or chicken.

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