Not much has changed at Kathleen’s, a Lovers Lane institution for almost two decades as Kathleen’s Art Cafe. The name is different, but the menu remains much the same, the owners are the same, and the service and food is as consistently inconsistent as it ever was.
On its good days, Kathleen’s is a worthwhile destination for late breakfasts and weeknight dinners. Prices are fair and portions generous. My Times Herald pal Jim Frisinger swears by the North Beach eggs, scrambled and served with meat loaf and feta cheese. The Thai Chicken salad is as trustworthy as always, while Kathleen’s has always done an acceptable thin crust pizza. And I remain partial to the carrot cake among the restaurant’s many well-done desserts. The lamb lollipops, served with pita bread and tzatziki, are among the best of the new items.
But when Kathleen’s is not having a good day, and it happens more often that it should, the restaurant is not a lot of fun. We have had the wrong order, incomplete orders, and late (and very late orders) — in addition to the usual sorts of aggravations stemming from poor service and less than enthusiastic employees.
And my pet peeve, which I have mentioned more than once to owner Robert Ellington: Beef up the wine list. It’s better in this incarnation of Kathleen’s, but it’s still not where it should be.
