Those of you who have lived in this city for many years remember the Black Forest Bakery on Northwest Highway, run by the Dreyfuss family, which sadly closed in the ’80s after Mr. Dreyfuss’ death. The happy second chapter in the story of the European confection shop is that Henk Winnubst, an enterprising émigré from Holland, bought the name and revived the bakery in 1991. He added an authentic European deli, serving hand-made cold cuts, brats, Wiener schnitzel, sandwiches and many classics from the Old Country.
Winnubst was a grocer in Holland, and soon found a career as part owner and grocery manager for the venerable Kuby’s after immigrating with his wife and son, Hubert, in 1959; not long afterwards his son, Adrian, was born in Dallas. The two boys grew up in the deli business, helping their dad and eventually going to work for Kuby’s themselves. After college, both sons tried their hand at other lines of work, but soon came back to what they knew best.
When Henk left Kuby’s after 30 years, he and his family took their deli know-how and resurrected the old Black Forest Bakery. Since then Henk has semi-retired and his children carry on, including a new Black Forest Coffee shop that his daughter, Hannika, runs inside Half Price Books on Northwest Highway.
Adrian and Hubert run the deli/bakery that is still situated in the original location on Northwest Highway just east of Central Expressway. The brothers serve everything from scrambled eggs to Ruebens to kassler (smoked pork loin). Offerings are “from scratch” including the sausages and cold cuts, which are made by “an old Austrian fellow” in Tulsa and driven down once a week. Henk’s is open every day for breakfast (yeah, breakfast!) and lunch, but only Friday and Saturday nights for dinner, when patrons are treated to live music.
As family affairs go, this is a most tasty and friendly one.
Henk’s European Deli and Black Forest Bakery
5811 Blackwell
Dallas, TX 75231
214-987-9090
fax 214-987-9444
Henk’s Hungarian Chicken
Serves 4
4-6 oz. Boneless skinless chicken breasts
Marinade:
- 1C Water
- 1C Butter, melted and clarified
- 1C White wine
- 1 tsp. Each (adjust to taste)
- Salt
- Pepper
- Paprika
- Garlic powder
- Garlic salt
- White pepper
- Sugar
Mix all ingredients for marinade. Place chicken in shallow dish and pour marinade over. Let chicken marinate for at least 24 hours. Pan-grill in a little butter, using some of the fat from the marinade to brush onto the chicken to keep it moist while cooking. Sprinkle on more salt and pepper to taste while cooking, and more paprika for color. Cook until done through but tender, and serve with classic sides such as potato salad and sauerkraut. This dish is also good as a sandwich, and makes a nice chicken salad when cut into small strips or chunks and placed on top of salad greens with oil and vinegar.
