The LeCour family brings a touch of Germany to Lakewood by opening a second Dallas restaurant

By Lynne Kleinpeter

Looking for a touch of Old Germany in Lakewood? Head to LeCour’s Ble Front, 2221 Abrams Road, in the former Louie’s Backyard building.

The original Blue Front is Downtown, no longer in the original street-level shop but in the under-ground restaurant space beneath Griffith Street, adjacent to One Main Place. Amidst the glass and chrome of Downtown, the Blue Front maintains an old-fashioned atmosphere.

Everything is informal Downtown, with waitresses at the door likely to greet you with “just pick out a table anywhere, honey.”

Unlike the Downtown restaurant, the Lakewood Blue Front is open for lunch, dinner and on weekends, allowing more time to leisurely enjoy the good food and soak in the pleasant atmosphere.

The Blue Front’s blue and white frame exterior is reminiscent of the buildings found in old German towns. Outdoor patio tables all have umbrellas, and there is plenty of parking next to and behind the restaurant.

The interior continues the old-world feel, with light pastel shades and lace curtains. It’s the sort of feeling you get when you return home to your mother’s for dinner, walk into the kitchen and ask: “What’s cooking?”

The waiters are generally outgoing and helpful. (In fact, most of them appear to be budding actors.) They can answer questions about either the menu or the storied LeCour family.

What about the food, you say? If you like a hearty, “Stick-to –your-ribs” meal for a moderate price, the Blue Front is the right place.

The starters range from traditional fare such as navy bean soup and dinner salads to the more adverturesome Sardine Plate (brisslings served with potato salad, %5.25) or the Herring in Sour Cream (served with potato salas, onions and dill pickles, $6.50). Dressings are made fresh daily.

Or you might try the down-home Grossmama’s Depression Dish (hash and twp vegetables, $4.25) or the roast beef with borseradish sauce and boiled potatoes ($6.50).

Roast beef, polish sausage, corned beef and potato salad dominate the dinner selections. Of course, what German menu is complete without such delicacies as smoked tongue, pig knuckles with sauerkraut and boiled potatoes, or goose liver? (To be honest, I can’t personally vouch for the pig knuckles or smoked tongue.) Most dinners range from $7.25 to $9.25.

The traditional German schnitzels are also offered: wiener schnitzel with capers and lemon butter sauce ($8), and Holstein schnitzel topped with fried egg, capers and lemon butter sauce – and anchovies, if requested ($8.50). And for the more American taste, the Blue Front serves chicken fried steak, orange roughy and hamburgers.

There’s nothing wrong with traditional American fare, of course, but I’d stick with the traditional Blue Front dinners. Isn’t that why you’re there in the first place?

The Blue Front offers a special children’s menu (entrees from $1.10 to $1.50) called das kinder garten Cute, eh?

Also featured is a decent list of imported and domestic beers, and a moderately priced wine selection – not particularly extensive, but good table wines, nonetheless.

So, if you’re looking for short trip to the old world, give the new Blue Front a try. (With a last name like Kleinpeter you know I’ll be taking my mother here.)

Happy eating! See you next month.

Lynn Kleinpeter is a Dallas travel agent and author. She grew up in Louisiana and lives in the Swiss Avenue Historic District. Her restaurant review and notes column appears monthly in the Advocate.

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