I am regularly accused of being a food snob — My God, he writes about wine — which is as untrue as it is unfair. And, to prove my point, I heartily recommend a joint on Lower Greenville across from the Granada called Big D’s Dogs.
There are a couple of keys to a great hot dog. The first is the dog itself, which needs to be more than a wiggly sausage casing (like those 99-cent wieners at the grocery store), and it must taste meaty and garlicky. Second, the bun should be sturdy enough to support the hot dog and condiments. To my mind, the quintessential urban hot dog comes from Mustard’s Last Stand in Evanston, Ill., though anyone who has spent time in cities like New York and Chicago, where the hot dog is respected, will have their own favorite.
The Big D’s dog more than holds its own. It’s grilled, not steamed, which is a nice touch, and the potato bun is impressive. The condiment assortment is a bit non-traditional (jalapeno relish), and one of the offerings includes ketchup, which is to hot dogs what the designated hitter is to baseball. Still, one can overlook those flaws, given the otherwise high quality of the product. Big D’s is a welcome addition.
