That’s because Italian sangiovese usually comes from just one place, Tuscany, and it makes some of the most famous wines in the world. It’s also not cheap. The Stemmari ($8, purchased, available at Jimmy’s), on the other hand, was cheap and comes from a part of the world hardly known for sangiovese. But regular visitors know how much I appreciate the Sicilian wine renaissance, and Feudo Arancia is a top-notch Sicilian producer.
The Stemmari did not disappoint. No one will ever confuse it with a high-end Chianti or Super Tuscan, two of the best-known Tuscan sangioveses, but it tastes exactly like sangiovese. To be honest, I had my doubts whether it would. The wine is a little short, in that its flavors end abruptly, but what is there is varietally correct – sour cherries, a little earthiness, a little cedar. It’s just not as well developed as in a better quality wine.
Which does not imply there is anything wrong with the Stemmari, and especially at this price. You get more than $8 worth. Drink this with any red sauce, pizza, and even burgers. Just don’t tell a wine snob it’s from Sicily until after they taste it.
Click to sign up for the Advocate's weekly news digest and be the first to know what’s happening in Lakewood/East Dallas.