Screw top. No oak. Lots of viognier peach fruit. About $9.

Excuse me while I catch my breath. I couldn’t believe how much I liked this wine (available at Central Market), since cheap chardonnay, even from respected cheap wine producers like Tortoise Creek, is rarely worth writing about. It’s either too oak-y (or too fake oak-y) and the lesser quality grapes that are used are often bitter or not quite ripe.

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But that’s not the case with this French wine, which is 70 percent chardonnay and 30 percent viognier. I drank it with takeout Indian — spiced lentils included –- and it was one of those pairings that made me think I actually know what I’m doing.