Twenty-five years ago, before Robert Parker and the Wine Magazines and five-figure bottles of French wine, Americans who drank French wine mostly drank three or four kinds. They were cheap, pleasant and Gallic — what more did one need?

We drank Beaujolais, usually the Georges DuBoeuf; Vouvray (I have fond memories of B&G Vouvray, which I used to buy at the K&B drug store in Thibodaux, La.); the Bordeaux blends from Mouton Cadet; and Macon-Villages. Not all those wines have consistently held up over the past three decades, but I’m still drinking the Macon, which is chardonnay from Burgundy made by Louis Jadot ($9, purchased, available at Central Market and Cost Plus).

Would that more U.S. winemakers understood how to make a consistent, quality chardonnay like this, with the requisite varietal characteristics (green apple and sturdy acid) and no trace of fake oak. Serve it tomorrow for Thanksgiving or with leftover turkey sandwiches. Highly recommended, especially if you can find it for $10 or less.

If you’re looking for more Thanksgiving wine thoughts, check out my November magazine wine column or my blog.

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