The recession has changed the way many of the country’s top wineries do business, and the J pinot gris ($15, sample, available at Goody Goody, Central Market, Centennial) demonstrates why.

This wine, which J made as an afterthought in previous years, has gone into regular production as a response to the recession. Wine drinkers have been buying less expensive wine, and J made few wines that sold for less than $20. Hence the pinot gris, which has been a huge success for the winery and a boon for those of us who appreciate fairly priced, well-made wine

The pinot gris is a little richer than most California pinot gris at this price (and the alcohol is a touch high at 14 percent). But there is plenty of pleasant tropical fruit and even some orange, as well as a long, nicely-done peach pit finish. Drink this chilled on its own, or with almost any white wine food. It would pair quite nicely with grilled seafood, and is a good choice for a Saturday night dinner when you want something a little nicer than the usual $10 white wine.

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