I have written very nice things about Bonny Doon and winemaker Randall Grahm recently. And, ordinarily, I’d slow down. But he keeps making such terrific wine that I’m almost compelled to keep writing nice things.

Take, for example, this syrah (about $20, available at most of the usual suspects). It tastes almost nothing like any New World syrah — none of the over-the-top inkiness of Australian shiraz and no overdone California fruit. In fact, it has quite a few French-style syrah elements to it, including a wonderfully funky aroma. And regular readers know that if the Wine Curmudgeon recommend a wine that costs more than $10 or $12, it must be really, really good.

Having said that, don’t drink this if you’re expecting one of those high alcohol, incredibly unsubtle, jammy-to-the-point-of-no-return syrahs. But if you want a deep, dark, rich, well-balanced red wine, drink it with barbecue and grilled steaks.

Loire wine makers: France’s Loire wine region often gets lost in the hubbub over Bordeaux and Burgundy, but it has traditionally produced some exceptional wines — mostly white and usually very interesting. Some of the region’s best young wine makers will appear from 6-8 p.m. at the Lovers Lane Central Market, in a tasting sponsored by the local chapter of the American Institute of Wine and Food. Tickets are $25 for members; $30 for non-members. Call 214-696-2493 for information and reservations.

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