This time of the year, every wine writer in the country writes the same story – what to do about Thanksgiving.
This is not so much because we’re lazy (although there are no doubt some readers who will think so, after having waded through another oaky and toasty tribute to California chardonnay). Rather, it’s because no meal in the history of American cuisine presents as many challenges as Thanksgiving does.
It’s sweet (candied yams). It’s gamey (the turkey). It’s spicy (jalepeño cornbread dressing). And if that doesn’t complicate matters enough, it’s epic – certainly more courses and more food than most of us eat in a week, jammed into one meal. It doesn’t need wine as much as it needs Alka-Seltzer.
In fact, this is one time when the truly open-minded agree that a well-made white zinfandel ( DeLoach or Kenwood, which are less sweet than most pink wines) is acceptable. But the more adventurous might want to consider:
Wente Chardonnay 2001 ($11)
This is a balanced, unassuming white wine that has enough of chardonnay’s characteristics (some fruit, some acid, a touch of California style) to please everyone at dinner. That’s saying a lot for $11. Serve chilled.
DeBoeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2003 ($10)
Most red wines are too overwhelming for Thanksgiving, blotting out the taste of the food. But this red, released annually Nov. 15 in one of those centuries-old French traditions, has lots of fruit and goes well with turkey. Serve at room temperature.
Trimbach Riesling 2000 ($18)
This white wine from Alsace is off-dry, which means it isn’t as sweet as other rieslings and has more citrusy flavors. It can stand up to spicy food, but won’t be overwhelmed by sweet food. Serve chilled.
