For years, Argentina’s wines always suffered in comparison to those in neighboring Chile — let alone the rest of the world. They usually weren’t price competitive, they fluctuated widely in quality, and there just weren’t many reasons to drink Argentine.
All that has started to change. Today’s Argentine wines are vastly improved, offering terrific price/value ratios and a fruit-forward style that matches almost any kind of food. And remember, Southern Hemisphere vintages are six months older than those in the U.S. and Western Europe, since autumn down there is spring here.
Know, too, that the Argentines make wines from grapes that aren’t used extensively elsewhere, such as the malbec and the torrontes, which means their wines don’t taste like cabernet or chardonnay. Also, the best Argentine wine region is the Mendoza, where there is very little rain and the nights are much cooler than the days. This contributes to the fruit-forward style.
A good introduction to Argentine wines are those from Familia Zaccardi, sold under the Santa Julia label for mostly less — often much less — than $10. The 2003 Torrontes ($7) is especially impressive, a soft and lovely white wine that is perfect for summer. Unfortunately, it’s sometimes difficult to find Santa Julia wines here. But there are many others worth trying:
• Bodega Norton Malbec 2002 ($8). A well-made malbec produces a red wine that’s fruity like a merlot, but not as overpowering as a cabernet. This is one of those wines, from a long-time, respected producer.
• Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes 2003 ($15). A terrific value and worth drinking even in the middle of winter. In a Texas summer? It’s an essential, whether as a porch sipper or with seafood or salads.
• Tikal Patriota 2002 ($27). This red is a treat for anyone who is tired of overpaying for Napa cabernet. It’s a blend of malbec and another Argentine grape, bonardo, and produces a big, manly — yet very drinkable — wine.
