LONI HEYN

LONI HEYN is a neighborhood go-to gal for a good bottle of wine. She offers up her expertise to customers of Pogo’s Wine and Spirits at Inwood Village and patrons of Lola the Restaurant on weekends. Heyn, who has been in the wine industry for more than 14 years, recently received her Advanced Sommelier Certificate from the Court of Master Sommeliers. In turn, she has been invited to sit for her designation of Master Sommelier in February, which means she has a lot of work to do. Since 1977, only 12 women in the have been given that distinction, and Heyn is determined to join their ranks.

 

 

Q: Let’s talk shop — what’s your favorite bottle of wine?

 

A: Well, it depends on what time of day it is — literally. I like to say I’m a bubblehead. I love Champagne . I also love Rhone varietals, and I’ve been really into Spanish wines lately. It seems to be whatever country I’m studying at the time; I drink that for a while and then move on.

 

 

Q: So what’s best wine you’ve ever tasted?

 

A: Wow. That takes into account who I was with and where I was. Probably a ’61 Chateau Latour. That was the first time I’d had really, really old wine. It kind of hit me in my head — wine is a living, organic thing that changes. It goes through high and low times. It’s fascinating.

 

 

Q: What exactly is a sommelier?

 

A:  Technically it is a restaurant term — someone who presents wine at a restaurant. But lately it has come to mean someone who is accredited. They’ve taken a test and know wine.

 

 

Q: Can you explain the distinction between the different levels of certification?

 

A: There are three levels: certificate level, advanced level and master. The testing is rigorous — you have six wines in front of you, and you have to determine the variety, region, climate and age. You have to tell everything about the wine just from tasting and smelling. Then you also have to be able to present the wine and take a written test on your knowledge. It’s really, really hard. Very few people pass the Master Sommelier test on the first go.

 

 

Q: So how do you study for the test?

 

A: They teach you a theory of blind tasting. And basically, you have to keep doing it — constantly do blind tasting. You also have to keep up with the different growing regions. That’s why I like hanging out at the restaurant — to taste, you know, all these older wines. Like the other day I had an ’82 Hauterion — which was awesome. 

 

 

Q: What do you think about Texas wine?

 

A: I think McPherson Viognier is one of the best wines out there. The Rhone varietals grow really well in Texas , but not that many people are planting that here yet. I think Texas wines have come a long way.

 

 

Q: Can you recommend a good springtime wine?

 

A: Well, let’s say you are having ham. Ham is salty, so you’ll need a wine with fruit to cut the salt. I’d suggest a dry Riesling or a French-style Chardonnay. If you are having lamb, a Rhone-based wine like a Syrah or an Australian Shiraz.