Not all French sparkling wine is made in Champagne, and not all of it is made with chardonnay and pinot noir. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace NV (about $16) comes from Alsace in western France, is made with pinot gris, and is an enjoyable alternative to the usual sort of bubbly that one drinks for this holiday. Like all good sparkling wine, it is crisp, with lots of tight, tiny bubbles, and an apple fruitiness. Drink it on its own (chilled, of course) or with almost any white wine kind of dish. It’s available at most of the usual places. including Centennial and Central Market.