I like Kim McPherson. He’s funny, he tells a good story, and he always returns my phone calls. But I’d recommend this wine even if he wasn’t any of those things.

His viognier (about $13, available at Central Market, Stony’s, Perry’s, and the Wine Therapist) is one of the best examples of what Texas wine can be. It has viognier character, which means it’s a white wine with crisp apple and pear flavors that isn’t as heavy as chardonnay or as citrusy as sauvignon blanc. But the wine doesn’t taste like it was made in California or France, either. It’s lighter and more fruit forward, and it’s easy to drink. Note to wine snobs: Easy to drink is not a crime, but a goal that well-made wine should aspire to.

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Serve this with white wine dishes or on its own, chilled to about 55 degrees.

Shameless plug: I’ve added a web site for my wine writing. There may be some overlap with what you see here, but it gives me a chance to write about less local wine subjects.