Those of us who wonder if Texas can become a great wine-producing state, instead of a state where wine is produced, need look no further than the Pacific Northwest. During the past 30 years or so, Oregon and Washington producers and growers have learned many of the lessons Texas winemakers may be starting to grasp (the best grapes to grow and where to grow them) and have made world-class wines — and, in terms of value, often shame their California counterparts.
Oregon is known for pinot noir and, to a lesser extent, white wines such as chardonnay, pinot gris and riesling. Washington makes superior cabernet sauvignons and red blends, as well as a wide range of more-than-decent $10 wines from big companies such as Chateau Ste. Michelle. Each state also offers distinctive, fruit-forward styles, as opposed to the manly, heavier California approach:
Of particular interest:
• Chateau Ste. Michelle Johannisberg Riesling 2004 ($8). A white wine for people who don’t like wine, but that’s made well enough for people who do like a glass or two. It’s a sweeter wine, but not excessively so. Serve it chilled as an aperitif or with any white wine meal, especially spicier foods. Note that some bottles may say Riesling Columbia Valley, since the winery is changing the name to comply with new federal labeling laws.
• Sokol Blosser Evolution NV ($15). In one respect, it’s difficult to recommend this, since I remember it when it was $9. But it’s still two-thirds the price of its California competitors such as Conundrum, and offers many of the same qualities — not too sweet, very food friendly and extremely well made. Serve it well chilled with fish or chicken.
• Bookwalter Winery Lot 19 NV ($20). This red blend (five grapes, mostly cabernet) is well worth $20, with bright berry fruit and a smooth finish despite its red wine pedigree. Serve it at room temperature with anything from pizza to most beef dishes.
