Vern’s, the Dallas soul food institution, has reopened on Elm Street in Deep Ellum. I drove by the other day, and the door was open and the short ribs and greens were cooking away. This is how much I treasure Vern’s: I’m supposed to go to a wine lunch at Perry’s, the hoity-toity Uptown steakhouse on Friday, and I may cancel to go to Vern’s with my pal Terry Miller, who learned about soul food growing up in Mississippi.

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