Quick show of hands: How many of us have been to the New Big Wong after midnight? (And I won’t ask how many people remember it on Fitzhugh, as opposed to the "new" location on lower Greenville.)

An old pal, since exiled to Nebraska (yes, there are places that are almost as dull as Frisco) used to look forward to the New Big Wong’s orange beef with a special anticipation. Twenty-five years ago, that was a pretty damned exotic dish.

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A lot has changed, of course. The big fish tank with various live swimming things is mostly gone, and I don’t know that the food is as good as it used to be. Or that it was as good as I remember it being. And I don’t eat there more than once or twice a year any more. But I stopped by for a carryout order over the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Got the orange beef, of course, in honor of my friend, and the shrimp pan fried noodles and the crab meat corn soup (made, as always, with faux crab) and a couple of other items, and everyone had a good time passing the food around, talking about the old days, and trying to remember exactly where the old Big Wong was on Fitzhugh.

Didn’t get the pu pu tray, though. Guess I’ll save that for next time.