Central Texas brisket might be the Champagne equivalent of the barbecue world, but Smoky Rose pitmaster Shane Snow has plenty to offer with his particular brand of Northeast Texas barbecue.

“Everyone is more Central Texas-style, but I’m running away from that,” Snow says. “It all tastes the same. Somebody has to be brave and do it differently.”

Unlike in Central Texas, Snow seasons the meat with more than just salt and pepper, and he cooks it like they do in East Texas — slowly until it falls off the bone. The tenderness makes it easy to chop and put in sandwiches.

There’s no worshipping beef at Smoky Rose, and no one will judge if you want to try it with sauce. Smoky Rose has three: a house-made barbecue, a Sriracha barbecue and a Carolina gold.

Trying the brisket is a must, of course, but Snow says the pork belly burnt ends will wow you. The smoked salmon and the smoked turkey BLT with gouda, avocado and garlic aioli on sourdough are also favorites.

Snow cut his teeth on the barbecue competition circuit and aims to incorporate the enhanced preparation and selective trimming techniques into the barbecue served at restaurants.

When Smoky Rose opened on Garland Road in 2016, it catered to the gourmet side of barbecue. Snow has since simplified the menu.

“I was pushing a simpler menu, something you can execute well every day,” he says. “The stuff coming out of the kitchen now is the best we’ve ever done.”

Smoky Rose, 8602 Garland Road