Just as fashions have returned to the ‘60s, so have eating trends. At least, that’s the case at Simply Fondue on Lower Greenville Avenue.

For those who remember the fondue trend (and for those who don’t), envision cheese melted in a large pot in the middle of the table. Each person has a long, two-tined fork with wooden handles individually colored to help keep from getting someone else’s fondue concoction.

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Remember, that’s what makes it unique – you make it your way, to your taste. Some people may like gobs of cheese on bread that has been soaking in the pot. Others may choose a brief sweep through the pot with just a tiny bit of cheese.

Simple Fondue does it all and does it all with style. But, I’ll save the details for later to generate a little suspense.

The restaurant’s interior is long and narrow, with the casual, inviting feeling of a British pub. Dark, high wooden booths (each with built-in burners) finish the look.

The waiters and waitresses are friendly and well-versed in the delivery and preparation of fondue. Each dish is prepared separately, with its own sauce, batter, cheese, whatever. Just a warning, though: Service can get a little confusing if more than two people are in the booth (we had four in our party), and each orders something different.

During our visit, we ordered the Swiss Cheese Fondue ($8.95), which is a blend of Gruyere and Emmenthaler cheeses, with wine and spices. This dish is served with bits of French, sourdough, rye and whole wheat breads, assorted vegetables and apples. We also tried the Beef Fondue ($12.95), with raw beef tenderloin cut into bite-sized pieces.

We also ordered the Chicken Fondue ($10.95), which was uncooked pieces of boneless chicken breasts served with sauces. Each of these dishes is also served with large, fresh mushrooms.

The fun part comes when the pot built into your table is filled with a wine-based liquid. As it heats, the waiter brings out various sauces and batters and offers dining tips.

Then it’s just a matter of spearing small bits of food, dipping them in sauces or batters, and plunging the concoction into the pot. We tried chicken with raw carrots and Swiss Fondue, and pieces of apple rolled in batters and fried. The list of possibilities is virtually endless.

And when it comes to dessert, the offerings are a bit pricey ($4.95) but well worth the calorie overload.

With any good fondue dinner, you’ll want to consider a good wine or beer. Wine by the glass is $3.75; by the bottle, it’s $16 to $25. Import and domestic beers range from $2.50 to $4.25.

If you’re looking for something different, consider Simply Fondue. It may not be for everyone, because it truly is an exercise in eating. But for those who enjoy that kind of thing, this restaurant is a lot of fun.

Would I take my Mother there? No, because she never liked fondue much anyway. But who always listens to Mom?

Until next time, happy eating.

Simply Fondue, 2105 Greenville, is open for dinner only, Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to midnight.