I could throw a rock and hit this place from my cubicle, and I know I’ve sung its praises here before. But I really believe the Cock & Bull Pub is one of the most underrated restaurants in town. That’s probably because it’s just a little old dive bar. But the menu is no joke.

We went for a late supper and $4 Stella Artois Sunday night. First of all, it is possible there’s no better cheese list in Dallas. We ordered three: Cypress Grove’s Lamb Chopper; a smoked Swiss, which our server recommended; and a blue cheese that was spicy and fantastic, even if I can’t remember the name of it.

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We also ordered hummus, which was good and came with lots of warm pita bread, tiny pickles and olives. We shared an entree, the veal and mushroom meatloaf with truffled mac and cheese and green beans, which were cooked perfectly with butter and salt. The meatloaf is sliced and then pan fried, delicious and original. The Cock & Bull ought to serve that mac and cheese, gratinéed, as an entree on its own. They could sell trainloads of it.

The C&B also has a $6 blue-plate special on Sundays — last week it was New York strip steak over wasabi mashed potatoes. So if you order a Stella and the blue-plate special, you’re getting a pretty good Sunday supper for $10.