We have had, off and on over the years, decent Indian food in Dallas. Some of the best we have ever had, though, has turned up at a place called Roti Grill on McKinney just on the other side of Central.

My passion for Indian food  began when I was lucky enough to spend some time in London on writing business in the late 1980s. Most of what I have had at the Roti Grill is as good as what I had in London, where the English take their Indian very seriously (and also incredibly spicy, but that’s another story.) It’s not perfect — consistency isn’t always what it should be, and it’s a little pricey, given the Knox-Henderson location.

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What to try? Forget the beef and chicken dishes. The Roti Grill is about vegetables. All are standouts, even something a non-Indian would hesitate to try because it sounds so odd, like vegetable fritters in yogurt sauce. Especially well-done are the black lentils, called daal maharani, and the chickpeas, which comes in a sweet, spicy balti sauce.

Speaking of spicy, take care. Medium is mostly spicy enough — once past that point, you’re in eye-watering, water-guzzling territory.