Sound red alert! Raise shields! We are in full chicken fried steak crisis mode.

Robb Walsh, the eminent food critic for Houston’s version of the Observer, a fellow member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, a contributor to the New York Times, and a man I quoted in my epic chicken-fried steak article a couple of years ago, writes disparagingly about Dallas-area chicken fried: "In Houston, Dallas and Austin, sushi is exceedingly popular; chicken-fried steak, not so much."

Apparently, he was steered to a couple of places that those of us who know chicken fried would not go to (places often frequented by young men who wear their caps backwards and call each other dude, D magazine types, and the like). What can we do about this injustice? How can we tell him about Matt’s Rancho Martinez or Vern’s or any of the other — dozens ? — of restaurants around here that know chicken fried? I feel a Backtalk event of some kind coming on — perhaps 100 words or so about your favorite chicken fried, and we send the best entries to Robb?

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