It’s certainly possible to drink red wine during a Dallas summer. That’s what air conditioning is for. But red wine isn’t known for its hot weather friendliness.
What it is known for is pairing with beef and similar hearty, cooler weather dishes. It’s the kind of food that makes the house smell of garlic and onions and braising meat, the sort of thing that gives you a preview of dinner every time you walk into the kitchen. The other good news? Wineries and producers have discovered that not all quality red wine needs to cost a lot of money.
Traditionally, it has been easier to make decent cheap white wine than red (white doesn’t have to age as long, which cuts production costs). But this is changing, thanks not only to the grape glut, but to better techniques among winemakers and the realization that consumers want less expensive reds.
What to look for at less than $15 or so? Almost anything from Spain, less than 15 percent alcohol shirazes from Australia, and some surprisingly good Chianti. These three suggestions give a good indication of what’s available:
• Kreydenweiss Perrieres 2003 ($14). Some French producers, such as Kreydenweiss, are making great strides at producing terrific wine at reasonable prices. This red blend from the Rhone tastes much more expensive than it is, with a balance between the fruit and the tannins (and yes, it’s supposed to smell like a barnyard when you open the bottle).
• Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 ($15). A couple of years ago, this wine was a steal at $11. But it’s still a value, a wonderful fruit forward antidote to the crowd of over-priced Napa cabernet. There is also a $10 version, called California (as opposed to Napa), which isn’t as interesting.
• Veramonte Primus 2004 ($15). This red blend features carmenere, a grape that does very well in Chile. It’s not fruity like a California wine; rather, it’s more tannic and the carmenere gives the wine a bit more oomph.
— Jeff Siegel
Natchez pot roast
(Adapted from Dan Vincent, Natchez restaurant)
Pot roast isn’t a complicated subject. The idea is pretty basic — an inexpensive cut of meat, browned and braised until it’s as tender as can be. This recipe comes from the late and much lamented Natchez, where owner Dan Vincent used the pot roast in his award-winning Debris sandwiches. The highlight of this recipe is the cooking liquid, which becomes a beefy, wine-y au jus. And yes, drink the wine you’re cooking with.
Serves six; takes about 3½ hours from start to finish
5 lb chuck roast or similar cut
4 Tbsp olive oil
3 stalks chopped celery
1 chopped large onion
3 Tbsp minced garlic
2 diced carrots
1 cup red wine
1 Tbsp dried thyme
2 bay leaves
Salt, pepper and cayenne
1. Season beef with salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Brown in olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat on all sides until meat is caramel in color, about four or five minutes per side.
2. Remove beef, lower heat, and sauté vegetables in drippings until onions are clear.
3. Add beef, bay leaves, thyme and red wine; bring to a simmer; cover and cook over low heat until done, about three hours. Turn the beef over periodically.
Ask the wine guy
What’s the difference between a corked wine and one that’s oxidized?
A corked wine has been spoiled, caused by a cork that has been contaminated by a chemical called TCA. There is very little known about how or why this happens, and the best guess is that anywhere from three to seven percent of wines are corked. Corked wines give off a musty, wet basement smell. You can still drink it, but it won’t taste like it’s supposed to. Oxidized wines have been left open too long, usually overnight, and pick up a raw alcohol flavor. It’s the same process that causes peeled apples to turn brown. Again, the wine is safe to drink but doesn’t taste very good. Putting the cork back in doesn’t help, since the oxygen stays in the bottle.
